The Kimberley

18-Jun-2007

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The Kimberley

Sunday - 8th August

Up earlyish and set off for another days travel through the Kimberley.  Scenery ever-changing.   Rocky hills and escarpments changing to horizons fading off in the distance.  Real outback stuff.  Filled up with petrol and replenished the water tanks at Halls Creek then pushed on.  Had a bit of a sore back, so Jude took over the driving for the last 100k.  Arrived in Fitzroy Crossing early in afternoon and checked into Fitzroy River Lodge CP.  Very nice spot on the banks of the Fitzroy River.  Spent the afternoon cleaning the red Bungle dust out of the car, the van and our clothes.  A "Great Bowerbird" had built its bower under a bush just behind our caravan.  It was fascinating to watch him go through his rituals of bower building and courtship.  A neighbour lent me his superlong telephoto lens, (1100mm focal length equivalent) to get a shot of the bower bird in a tree.  Must get one.

Monday - 9th August

Went out for the boat trip along Geike Gorge in the morning.  Lovely day, hot and cloudless as usual. Lots of fresh water crocs dozing on the banks. Spectacular limestone cliffs, the remnants of ancient reefs, towered over the water.  Caught up with some fellow travellers in the evening.

Tuesday - 10th August 

Trekked off up the gravel again, about  90k of occasional corrugations and water crossings, to Windjana Gorge, walked through the narrow opening to a beautiful river hemmed in by massive limestone cliffs.  Odd few fossils exposed in the walls.  Walked along the bank of the river which was swarming with crocodiles (freshies) and the occasional snake.  Next stop was Tunnel Creek, where we walked underground for 750 metres following the path of a creek through a large limestone reef.  Most of the time we walked in the creek, occasionally the water was over our knees.  Pretty dark in there as the cave wound round and Judy was not at all happy with it, our little headlamps didn’t throw a huge amount of illumination.  Near the centre, the roof had caved in letting in some light.  Through cracks in the rock, the roots of figs had pushed through to the water.  Few bats hanging in the some of the higher caverns among the stalagmites.  Very interesting spot, but not well developed, very hard to get into over slippery boulders.   Got home and washed all the dust off the car inside and out.

Wednesday - 11th August 

Packed up rather leisurely and headed for Derby, we have booked a flight/cruise to the "Horizontal Waterfalls" and we couldn't get a seat before Saturday so we are taking it easy and staying here for a few days.  Lots of kids from various Kimberley's schools in town for the "Croc Festival" a sort of cross between a rock eisteddfod and an aboriginal cultural showcase.  We went along for the show at the local racecourse and it was fantastic, the production was very professional, and the kids we very enthusiastic and polished in there acts.

Thursday - 12th August

Thought we were taking it easy, but instead we decided to head to Bell Gorge for the day.  It's about 275k out along the infamous Gibb River Road.  It was a great drive, road was in pretty good condition with not too many corrugations and we were able to make good time.  Dropped in at the Prison Boab Tree, a little south of Derby on the way.  Scenery along the road was striking, flat plains to the horizon early in the drive then rugged escarpments and rock outcrops.  The road into the gorge was fairly rough but the swim in the pool under the waterfall made it all worthwhile.  Heading home we ran into sundown, the sunset was beautiful but very hard on the eyes as we were driving directly into it and we had to keep a sharp watch for animals.  Stopped for a mob of cattle, ran over a very large snake, and spotted a kangaroo in time to slow down.  Sadly all my good work washing the car was in vain as it is now dirtier than it was before the wash.

Friday - 13th August

Few housekeeping chores in the morning then off fishing in the afternoon.  Somewhat eventful, we drove out along a rough track through a cattle station to the Fitzroy River,  tide was out and there was a fair expanse of sand/mud flats between the track and the water.   I decided to back down closer to the water.  After about 30 yards I felt the tyres lose grip, Ah, Oh, put in drive, lock the centre diff and try going forward slowly, no go.  Small moment of panic at being stuck on mudflats next to croc infested river, but Jude maintained her cool, so I had to do the same.  With Jude driving and me pushing and digging little tracks with a stick and putting branches under the tyres we were back on firm ground in about 20 minutes.  Grabbed the rods and headed for the river.  We stood back from the edge, but probably not far enough.  Jude was fishing with bait and caught two fish, I was using barramundi lures and never got a bite.  Bugger.  Went out for dinner to local restaurant and had a nice piece of grilled barramundi.  Lots of bizarrely decorated cars in town for the start of the Variety Bash through the Kimberley.

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